Overland Adventure
As I was preparing to leave Senegal in February, I wasn't sure if/when I would return to the country. However, a colleague said to me, "I just have this feeling you will be back here at some point." And indeed, that's where I found myself on 11 September when my flight touched down in Dakar. Those months working remotely made me feel like I was away for such a long time, yet seeing the Africa Mercy still docked at the port put things into perspective.
Having been to Dakar numerous times, I settled in pretty quickly. But not all is the same as when I left. New restaurants have popped up. I am living in a different apartment with a mix of new and "old" colleagues. Like much of the world, prices have increased. There is a stretch along the beach road where swings were installed; one can enjoy the ocean while feeling like a kid again. Certain partners have moved into different positions and there are new government structures to understand.
But, in fact, I didn't sit down to write about Dakar today. Instead, I want to share about my recent overland adventure. With two vehicles, affectionately known as Bumble Bee and Baobab, I set out with five colleagues, lots of luggage, and ample snacks on a journey through the interior of Senegal, across Guinea, and on to Freetown, Sierra Leone.
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The day is young. We meet at the port to finish packing the vehicles. Hug colleagues who are staying in Dakar. Say a prayer together. And the journey begins. Of course we hit traffic, this is Dakar after all. But it's not so bad. Mainly lines of vehicles backed up at the tolls. We head out of town, past a baobab forest, such unique and easily recognizable trees. Everything is covered with the light of early morning. Rainy season is just ending. The vegetation is green, alive. The landscape is largely flat. The roads, in really good condition. As we journey farther into the interior, we see a lot of donkeys carrying people and goods on wooden carts. It's a cloudy day. Perfect for driving as the afternoons can feel hot even with air conditioning in the vehicle. We pass small villages and towns, each marked with a speed bump upon entry and exit. Termite mounds jut up from the ground, some seemingly as tall as me. The day ends in Tambacounda with a dip in the hotel pool and a dinner with colleagues. Yassa chicken with rice, a very common Senegalese dish.
Day two. We turn down a street in rural Senegal. On both sides, women walk in our direction dressed in patterned, brightly colored fabrics. Some are carrying prayer mats, and we soon realize they have just emerged from the local mosque. This is not something I have experienced in Dakar, seeing women together for prayer. Taking a picture would be highly frowned upon, but what a stunning sight. Today we cross the border from Senegal to Guinea. Procedures take a long time, but everything goes smoothly. Phew. Returning to Guinea feels like a real gift, especially because until a couple weeks ago, this wasn't even in our plans. The country boasts stunning landscapes, made even more appealing by the rainy season's effect on the vegetation. I wonder how much of the land was primary forest at one time. A stretch of road is particularly bad, but thankfully the red clay/dirt isn't very wet. We zig-zag across, aiming for the least bumpy but also the fastest route. We see some cars and trucks stranded; this happens often. Thankfully we make it through - 30ish km in roughly 2 hours. We cross an area with makeshift shelters cramped together along the road, lots of blue tarp woven into the construction. A former day crew who has joined us for the Guinea portion of the trip says this is where people mine for gold. They keep the homes very temporary because they don't own the land and aren't sure for how long they will stay. When traveling in West Africa, it's always important to stay alert. Not just the driver, but passengers as well. Animals, motos, fuel trucks and people too can be quite unpredictable. We enter a section of road where livestock has the upper hand. We finish maneuvering around some sheep and chickens and then come upon a group of cows followed by another. Some vehicles choose to honk and come at them full speed. We don't want to risk plowing over someone's livelihood, so take it slow. Twelve hours after our morning start, we arrive to our hotel for the night. It's the place I stayed in 2019 when I came to Labé to help with patient selection activities. I'm even assigned to the same room; nothing inside has changed. It's a bit surreal. A large spider hangs out on the wall opposite my bed; I let him chill but decide to use the mosquito net for protection. I've created an image in my mind that's he's the jumping kind of spider. However, by morning he's moved just a few inches.
Day three, beautiful scenery at every turn of the road. I want to stop often to take photos but there's no time for that. Instead, I do my best to capture what I am seeing as the car is passing. We break for gas, snacks, and a bathroom in Mamou, another city I know from traveling the country during the Guinea mission. Given that one US dollar equals nearly 9,000 Guinea francs, you can just imagine what it costs to fill two vehicles. You become a millionaire when you exchange money and spend it all so quickly. Side of the road a bit further along, three young boys together. One of about four years old is giving a piggy back to another who looks to be about two. What a sweet scene. While journeying, we often come across signs with wording that makes us smile, such as Groupe Scholar Joe Biden, Oprah University, and Restaurant Lavage Moderne (Modern Washing Restaurant). And we see many wares being sold along the road that are quite unique to Guinea - fuel and honey in reused water bottles (not together of course, but the color doesn't look all that different), large painted metal doors, pillows covered with African wax fabric, and near Coyah, neatly arranged piles of fresh fruits and vegetables (if only I had a kitchen...). We arrive to the Conakry (capital) area after sundown, and land smack into market traffic. Gridlock. A rather unorganized mess of people, motos, vehicles and semis trying to push their way through, going multiple directions. It's a mini miracle we emerge virtually unscathed, except for the taxi door that opens into ours. You can imagine the relief we feel arriving to the hotel after a long 13-hour day. But, the fun isn't over yet. There's a mix-up with our reservation - only one room to our name. Thankfully, the hotel does have space for all of us. We keep the cars packed and go eat a late dinner while our rooms are being prepared.
Day four, Sunday, rest day! No long-distance driving. We are thrilled. After a slow morning, we pile into vehicles to visit Gamal University where our small team based in Guinea is doing some amazing collaborative work related to dental, biomedical, and anesthesia training. There is a significant emphasis on hands-on experiences to help trainees put knowledge to practice and gain confidence in their skills so they are well-prepared to enter their respective fields after their studies conclude.
Day five. Almost there! The road from Conakry to the Sierra Leone border has been fully paved. What a fabulous surprise! The journey is so much faster and more comfortable than when I took the same route in 2018 for a week of vacation. The landscape heading to Freetown is relatively flat, with lush vegetation including many palm trees. Traffic is almost non-existent thanks to it being a holiday. Freetown itself is very hilly with buildings strewn up the sides. Occasionally, we catch glimpses of the ocean as we drive towards our hotel. Here motorbikes and kekes (the local name for tuk-tuks) reign, and there are many street vendors as well. We arrive late afternoon, greeted by a few friends. The Country Director who lives in Freetown and also colleagues from Wales and South Africa. We are so tired. So happy to be at our destination.
A lot of people in the organization helped us to prepare for our overland adventure and many friends, family members, and colleagues prayed for us along the way. And I have to say, we felt so cared for and protected. I am happy to report the trip went incredibly well. Everyone stayed healthy. Bumble Bee and Baobab had zero issues. Border crossings and check-points went smoothly. Despite some threatening storm clouds, we had only a sprinkle while driving. The hotels were comfortable. The roads were improved from what we expected. And team spirits remained high despite some days dragging on longer than planned.
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So why are we in Sierra Leone?
An immense amount of planning, partnership-building, and collaboration go into preparing for each field service. Though Mercy Ships vessels have been to Sierra Leone multiple times, the most recent mission was in 2011. Surprisingly, many people still remember Mercy Ships, and specific medical personnel too.
The general aim of this visit - from a medical/surgical perspective - is to listen and learn. To hear from existing and potential partners about the state of healthcare in this country, including challenges, needs, priorities, and successes. To gain clarity about how our work can align with existing health-related programs or with what's in preparation for the near future. To exchange ideas and to receive input which will inform our plans for engaging with Sierra Leone during the coming years. To experience Freetown and some of the interior provinces. To start understanding the culture. And to learn a few words and phrases in Krio, the most widely spoken language. In a nutshell that covers it!
Until next time, goodbye from Salone.
I appreciate your sharing details of your journey & accompanying photos.
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