Evolving Impression
Throughout my life I have had the opportunity to travel a fair amount. It's a priority for me but also a privilege that I don't take lightly. Relatives, friends, and travelers alike often ask me to name my favorite country. The truth is that I can't pick one; no single place stands out so much that it deserves such special recognition. That being said, the countries closest to my heart are those where I took the time to engage in the culture and with the local people.
Like the majority of travelers, I find satisfaction in visiting tourist sites and taking the requisite photos - think Eiffel Tower, Rome's Colosseum, the Statue of Liberty etc. And, as a lover of food, I appreciate any flavorful meal that highlights local cuisine. However, there is just something special about taking the opportunity to get familiar with a place and its people - even trying to learn some words in a new language.
Take Brussels, for example. Many people pass through the city quickly, stopping only for a few days on their way to another country. I rarely hear people say that Belgium was the highlight of their European vacation. Having lived in Belgium for two years, I came to know Brussels well and found it to be a fabulous city (even though it was never on my must-see list). I love the cultural vibe, the work/life balance, the green spaces, the efficient and reasonably priced public transport, the architecture, the walkability of the city, the mural art, it's proximity to other countries, and especially the community I formed. Relationships make a huge difference.
Before coming to Guinea, I read very little about the country - in part because tourist books tend to gloss over it, and history books don't keep my attention very long. I didn't come here with many expectations and was woefully uninformed. If you had asked me to give three spur-of-the-moment thoughts about Guinea before my arrival I probably would have said:
1) Widespread poverty, more outwardly obvious than other African countries I have visited
2) Minimal access to adequate healthcare
3) 2014 Ebola outbreak
Since my arrival, I have learned that in many ways, Guinea is in a tough spot. It is at the bottom of the Human Development Index - 175th out of 189 countries. Life expectancy is roughly 60 years for both women and men. Adult literacy is around 30% depending on the source you check. There is less than one surgeon for every 10,000 people. The most valuable banknote is worth 20,000 Guinean francs. It was introduced in 2015 and is worth just US$2.20.
When I took my first walk around the capital city of Conakry, the sight that impacted me the most was not the poverty - though that is pervasive - but rather the trash. It's ubiquitous - on the streets, around the residences and shops, covering beaches, and floating along the water's edge. Wearing flip flops at the time, I felt so dirty just being in close proximity to the garbage. I was kind of in shock to be honest.
Had I come to Conakry for just a few days, I probably would have departed with a rather negative opinion of the country. But lucky me, I'm here for 10 months! I mean that in all seriousness because even in the past few weeks my impression of Guinea is changing for the better.
THE PEOPLE
The people and sense of community here are already having a meaningful impact on me. On the streets, people say hello and ask how I am doing. Sometimes when I am running, they encourage me to stay strong and keep going. At the local market, where I purchased avocados and bananas last weekend, the vendors were not loud and pushy. They were quite fair in their pricing and helpful. I have seen some beautiful acts of kindness too. During our evaluation days, I watched a young man carrying his brother of nearly equal weight. He was unable to walk due to burn contractions on the backside of his knees. At the Assembly Point, where patients meet for transportation to the port, I saw a business man stop his conversation to help a blind elderly gentleman make a phone call. When I went on a hike nearby with friends, someone guided us down narrow paths so we wouldn't get lost. He asked for a souvenir, which I presumed was a request for money. But, no, he really wanted a souvenir marking his time with us. We offered him what little we had to give, which was trail mix, and he said he would think of us while eating it. On my team, we have nine local crew. They are hard-working, care sincerely for the patients, and are happy to learn. I am so grateful that I get to spend this field service with them. And finally, on the streets, one thing that I love to see are kids and teens playing soccer - often in jelly sandals. They literally set up miniature goals in the middle of the road and simply move the goals when vehicles come by. As a pedestrian, you kindly walk around the game or wait until the play is finished.
ENVIRONMENT
In Conakry, one can only catch glimpses of Guinea's natural beauty. What I have witnessed thus far is minimal but still so impressive. Most nights, I have the opportunity to watch the sunset light up the sky in a multitude of colors. The view from Decks 7 & 8 can be compared to a 5-start hotel situated on the water's edge. Equally stunning are the storms I've witnessed in this country. Big black clouds covering the sky, flashes of lighting that strike the water, and rain that will drench you in seconds. I know from experience because I got caught in a storm last weekend after said market trip; the rain also collapsed part of our screening tent one recent night. Two weeks ago, I traversed an island about an hour's boat ride from the ship. It was so nice to be away from the city and in the proximity of trees. An old, but active lighthouse on one end of the island offered spectacular views of the ocean, surrounding islands, and Conakry. Much to our surprise, we also came across a guest book at the lighthouse dating back to 1916.
THE FOOD SCENE
I must admit that I haven't had much local food yet aside from that which is served during our African-style meals on the ship. But, I must say that Conakry has some very good restaurants - especially those that serve Lebanese cuisine. It makes my heart so happy to have hummus and baba ganoush at my fingertips. And equally as amazing, there are supermarkets in the city that carry some gluten free items and almond milk (for a lofty price, but at least I have access to them).
Prior to coming to Guinea, I talked with a crew member who had experienced Guinea as part of the 2012/13 field service. One simple thing he said that stuck with me was: "...there's just something special about the country". It was like he couldn't put his finger on how to adequately describe the uniqueness of Guinea, but he was confident in his statement. I think I am starting to grasp the special touch that Guinea has on people when they stay for a while. I still notice the trash and the poverty, but those harsh realities don't frame my overall impression of the country anymore.
Like the majority of travelers, I find satisfaction in visiting tourist sites and taking the requisite photos - think Eiffel Tower, Rome's Colosseum, the Statue of Liberty etc. And, as a lover of food, I appreciate any flavorful meal that highlights local cuisine. However, there is just something special about taking the opportunity to get familiar with a place and its people - even trying to learn some words in a new language.
Take Brussels, for example. Many people pass through the city quickly, stopping only for a few days on their way to another country. I rarely hear people say that Belgium was the highlight of their European vacation. Having lived in Belgium for two years, I came to know Brussels well and found it to be a fabulous city (even though it was never on my must-see list). I love the cultural vibe, the work/life balance, the green spaces, the efficient and reasonably priced public transport, the architecture, the walkability of the city, the mural art, it's proximity to other countries, and especially the community I formed. Relationships make a huge difference.
______________________
Before coming to Guinea, I read very little about the country - in part because tourist books tend to gloss over it, and history books don't keep my attention very long. I didn't come here with many expectations and was woefully uninformed. If you had asked me to give three spur-of-the-moment thoughts about Guinea before my arrival I probably would have said:
1) Widespread poverty, more outwardly obvious than other African countries I have visited
2) Minimal access to adequate healthcare
3) 2014 Ebola outbreak
Since my arrival, I have learned that in many ways, Guinea is in a tough spot. It is at the bottom of the Human Development Index - 175th out of 189 countries. Life expectancy is roughly 60 years for both women and men. Adult literacy is around 30% depending on the source you check. There is less than one surgeon for every 10,000 people. The most valuable banknote is worth 20,000 Guinean francs. It was introduced in 2015 and is worth just US$2.20.
When I took my first walk around the capital city of Conakry, the sight that impacted me the most was not the poverty - though that is pervasive - but rather the trash. It's ubiquitous - on the streets, around the residences and shops, covering beaches, and floating along the water's edge. Wearing flip flops at the time, I felt so dirty just being in close proximity to the garbage. I was kind of in shock to be honest.
Had I come to Conakry for just a few days, I probably would have departed with a rather negative opinion of the country. But lucky me, I'm here for 10 months! I mean that in all seriousness because even in the past few weeks my impression of Guinea is changing for the better.
THE PEOPLE
The people and sense of community here are already having a meaningful impact on me. On the streets, people say hello and ask how I am doing. Sometimes when I am running, they encourage me to stay strong and keep going. At the local market, where I purchased avocados and bananas last weekend, the vendors were not loud and pushy. They were quite fair in their pricing and helpful. I have seen some beautiful acts of kindness too. During our evaluation days, I watched a young man carrying his brother of nearly equal weight. He was unable to walk due to burn contractions on the backside of his knees. At the Assembly Point, where patients meet for transportation to the port, I saw a business man stop his conversation to help a blind elderly gentleman make a phone call. When I went on a hike nearby with friends, someone guided us down narrow paths so we wouldn't get lost. He asked for a souvenir, which I presumed was a request for money. But, no, he really wanted a souvenir marking his time with us. We offered him what little we had to give, which was trail mix, and he said he would think of us while eating it. On my team, we have nine local crew. They are hard-working, care sincerely for the patients, and are happy to learn. I am so grateful that I get to spend this field service with them. And finally, on the streets, one thing that I love to see are kids and teens playing soccer - often in jelly sandals. They literally set up miniature goals in the middle of the road and simply move the goals when vehicles come by. As a pedestrian, you kindly walk around the game or wait until the play is finished.
Dedication to Family
Photo Credit: Mercy Ships Coms Team
ENVIRONMENT
In Conakry, one can only catch glimpses of Guinea's natural beauty. What I have witnessed thus far is minimal but still so impressive. Most nights, I have the opportunity to watch the sunset light up the sky in a multitude of colors. The view from Decks 7 & 8 can be compared to a 5-start hotel situated on the water's edge. Equally stunning are the storms I've witnessed in this country. Big black clouds covering the sky, flashes of lighting that strike the water, and rain that will drench you in seconds. I know from experience because I got caught in a storm last weekend after said market trip; the rain also collapsed part of our screening tent one recent night. Two weeks ago, I traversed an island about an hour's boat ride from the ship. It was so nice to be away from the city and in the proximity of trees. An old, but active lighthouse on one end of the island offered spectacular views of the ocean, surrounding islands, and Conakry. Much to our surprise, we also came across a guest book at the lighthouse dating back to 1916.
Tamara Island
Photo credit: Steffi Nee
Enjoying our Post-hike Boat Ride
Photo Credit: Desré Bates
I must admit that I haven't had much local food yet aside from that which is served during our African-style meals on the ship. But, I must say that Conakry has some very good restaurants - especially those that serve Lebanese cuisine. It makes my heart so happy to have hummus and baba ganoush at my fingertips. And equally as amazing, there are supermarkets in the city that carry some gluten free items and almond milk (for a lofty price, but at least I have access to them).
________________
Prior to coming to Guinea, I talked with a crew member who had experienced Guinea as part of the 2012/13 field service. One simple thing he said that stuck with me was: "...there's just something special about the country". It was like he couldn't put his finger on how to adequately describe the uniqueness of Guinea, but he was confident in his statement. I think I am starting to grasp the special touch that Guinea has on people when they stay for a while. I still notice the trash and the poverty, but those harsh realities don't frame my overall impression of the country anymore.
The View that Never Gets Old
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